Thursday, September 07, 2006

Corsica Adventure part II

This is the the citadel and port of Calvi at dawn, upon our arrival. During the night crossing I spent some time topside with Enzino and he shared with me some of his saltines ("Sono buoni, no?" "Si, veramente.") and some of his stories. He's 72 years old, though you would never guess it. He was the skipper for Bridget Bardot when she was in her prime. He hung out with Ted Turner when he sailed for the Americas Cup. ("E un bravo persona, e parla italiano bene.")
We sailed through the Scandola nature preserve the folowing day, amid rock formations and towers constructed to ward of the Saracens. Angelo and Enzino joked tha the towers were actually little houses built for the black sheep of the families. "Look! That one even has a window!"

We stopped at one point in the bay of Girolata to take a swim. I saw quite a few jellyfish in the water and asked Angelo if they sting. "No, definitely not. Enzo, do these jellyfish sting?" --"Well, more than one guy has had to be taken to the hospital for medusa stings," Enzino replied, while rigging the sails. Angelo scoffed and said, "let's go." Off we went, and within a minute I was stung maybe six or seven times, which I have to say threw me into a bit of a panic. I made it back to the boat, with whelts all along my face, chest and shoulders. enzino looked into the water, and remarked offhandedly, "Yeah, those are the most dangerous ones."

We sailed to the port of Ajaccia, the capital of the island, at out at a little restaurant that served only fish, so we all ordered the grigliata, a mixed seafood grill. Then Angelo saw a couple eating muscles, and told the proprietress that we'd like some of those as well. "No, that's a bad idea," she said. "you'll never be able to eat all that. Wait and see." She was right. After the massive plate of seafood, and the creme brule, we managed to make it back to the boat, taking the opportunity to "digest" our meal. Upon arrival, late at night, we tried a bit of Angelo's single malt scotch and cuban cigars, then it was off to bed.


There are many more memories to share, but they'll have to wait for another time. I've still got that sensation of being on the waves, and need to sign off.


Thanks, Angelo, for an unforgetable adventure.
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Wednesday, September 06, 2006

The Corsican Cruise
I just returned from the week-long cruise with my student/boss/friend, Angelo, and his trusty skipper, Enzino. Almost 24 hours after being back on dry land, I still feel like the floor beneath my feet is rocking to gentle waves.

On clear days here in Maberga we can see the mountains of Corsica rise up on the horizon, and such was the case the morning we set sail. The following morning we arrived at the port of Calvi, in the same locale we can see from our terrace at home.
A few highlights-- the spectacular scenery of the island's rugged coastline,

Daily swimming in crystal clear waters,

Eating fresh fish twice a day, prepared by Enzino, from roasted sea bass to lobster
pasta (even Enzino, not given to hyperbole, remarked at one particular dish he prepared of Triglia (not sure the English word for the fish), "Questo sughetto e una favola." (this sauce is a fairy tale.)

Enzo teaching me how to sail

Making a personal dictionary for Angelo, with him constructing sentences for each of his new words.
I have more to write, but have to sign off now. More to come...


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